The two vadai on a Sri Lankan tea-shop counter may have come from the same pan of hot oil, but they are quite different once you bite into them. One has a rough, crunchy crust packed with pieces of dhal. The other is usually ring-shaped, with a softer middle and a thin browned surface.
Parippu vadai and ulundu vadai are sold at bus stands, railway stations, bakeries and roadside eating houses across Sri Lanka. In some places, a few pieces are wrapped in paper for customers hurrying towards a bus. Elsewhere, they are served on a plate with coconut chutney, sambar or a cup of tea.
The word vadai is often shortened to wade in everyday Sinhala. Both forms are familiar to local customers. The distinction between the varieties comes from the pulses used, the preparation of the batter and the texture after frying.
Parippu vadai generally has a flattened, uneven shape. The surface is rough, with small pieces of dhal visible among the onion, chilli and curry leaves. Ulundu vadai is usually smoother and thicker, with a hole in the centre.
The crunch of parippu vadai
Parippu vadai is commonly made from split Bengal gram, known as chana dhal or kadala parippu. The dhal is soaked and coarsely ground, leaving some of the grains partly intact. Chopped onion, green chilli, curry leaves and other seasonings are mixed through the batter before portions are flattened and fried.
The coarse mixture accounts for much of the texture. Small pieces of dhal become firm and crunchy in the oil, while the inside remains more substantial than a flour-based fritter.
At a busy snack counter, parippu vadai can be recognised by its irregular edges and deep golden-brown colour. Some versions have more onion, while others are noticeably heavier on chilli. The curry leaves may remain visible on the surface after frying.
It is often eaten without a sauce, particularly when bought as a quick snack. The seasoning is already in the vadai, and freshly fried pieces generally have enough salt and chilli to stand on their own.
A cup of strong kahata or Sri Lankan milk tea is a familiar accompaniment. The sweetness of milk tea can soften the sharpness of the chilli, while plain tea keeps the fried dhal flavour more noticeable.
Parippu vadai is also associated with Sri Lankan Tamil cooking, where variations of lentil fritters form part of everyday meals and snacks. Recipes differ between households, particularly in the choice of dhal, spices and grinding method.
Ulundu vadai and its softer middle
Ulundu vadai begins with black gram, or ulundu. For the familiar pale variety, the black outer skin has been removed before the lentils are ground into a thick batter.
The batter is usually prepared with water, salt and selected seasonings. The grinding process develops a smoother consistency than the coarse mixture used for parippu vadai. Some cooks add onion, pepper, curry leaves or green chilli.
Small portions are shaped into rings and lowered into hot oil. The central hole helps the thick batter cook more evenly, although the shape varies with the cook’s technique.
A well-prepared ulundu vadai has a lightly crisp exterior and a soft, airy centre. The inside can feel almost spongy when freshly cooked. Poorly prepared versions may be heavy or oily, especially when the batter has not been properly aerated or the oil temperature is unsuitable.
Ulundu vadai is commonly served with coconut chutney or sambar, a seasoned lentil and vegetable preparation. It may also appear on a breakfast plate alongside other South Indian-influenced foods.
These food traditions have long been part of Sri Lankan Tamil households and eating houses, particularly in the Northern and Eastern provinces, though both varieties of vadai are widely eaten elsewhere on the island.
From bus stands to railway platforms
Vadai is convenient for travelling because it can be prepared in batches and eaten without a full meal. Vendors sometimes keep fried snacks in covered display cases, while others cook them close to the serving counter.
At transport hubs, the offering may include parippu vadai, ulundu vadai, vegetable rolls, samosas and other short eats. What is available depends on the location and the seller.
The vadai sold at a railway station may differ from the version served at a Tamil vegetarian restaurant. At the restaurant, ulundu vadai might arrive with freshly prepared chutney and warm sambar. At a small bus-stand shop, parippu vadai may be sold individually from a tray.
There is also isso vadai, often associated with street-food stalls around Colombo’s Galle Face Green. It is usually a flattened lentil fritter topped with prawns. Although it shares some ingredients and frying methods with parippu vadai, the prawn-topped version is a distinct snack.
The condition of the oil and how long food remains on display matter, particularly in Sri Lanka’s warm weather. Freshly fried vadai should be cooked through and handled with clean utensils. A hot snack is not automatically safe if it has been stored or handled poorly.
Some vadai are mild enough to eat by themselves. Others contain chopped green chilli that becomes noticeable only after the first few bites. If a stall serves both varieties, their different textures are easiest to appreciate when they are freshly fried.
Parippu vadai tends to break into coarse, crunchy pieces. Ulundu vadai tears apart more softly, exposing the pale batter beneath the crust. At the tea counter, both are commonly served on a small plate or a square of paper, with the next batch already draining beside the frying pan.
